(White people without significant knowledge of Haitian culture are generally advised to avoid taking tap-taps.) The biggest of the locals was very curious about me. When he saw I was awake, he took out and slowly unfolded a knife. The other two completely ignored us. ‘You missionary?’ The accent was thick but understandable. It didn’t matter, because the knife spoke clearly. My knowledge of Haiti was scarce, but I knew that the Haitian people have one of two views on white missionaries. Most love them, they are rich people (by Haitian standards, almost everyone else is) bringing badly needed aid. But it was still okay to steal from them, because they were so very rich. The other view was from vodou practitioners. They hated the missionaries, violence wasn’t unheard of and kidnapping for ransom was nearly a national pastime with them. The Navy had been clear about it – if you don’t have family in Haiti, don’t go there. I didn’t know enough to know what I was facing, but the knife set. Thinking this had been my target, you turned, ready to follow its snaking trail into the trees you could just start to make out, darker shapes rising out of the night. But a second look told you I hadn’t followed the path, but had continued on, off of what had looked like the edge of the earth. Looking down past your feet, you realized that it was actually a steep, short embankment and I was picking my way over huge rocks that led down to, now that you’d stopped to think, a tiny stretch of beach, as you heard for the first time the small ripples that washed up against the shore.You teetered down behind me until I stopped on a particularly large boulder, smoother and flatter on top than the rest. I sat carefully, tucking my cotton dress under me for some protection against the wind that had now started to pick up across the lake. For the first time since leaving the show, I turned to look at you, patting the empty spot beside me.Still slightly unsure, you joined me, glancing up and.
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